From Bridge over the River Kwai Chiang Saen
AYUTTHAYA
Day 7
Today we started our trip to Northern Thailand. We had decided that we would follow the State Northern Train Line and stop off on route as we went along. To get the train we had two choices: One to go back to Bangkok and get the Northern Train or two, get public transport to Ayutthaya stay a day and see the ancient temple ruins. We chose option two not only to get onto the correct train line, but it would be good to see the old capital of Siam. We got a taxi from the hotel to Kanchanaburi bus station with the intention of catching a local bus, however after some negotiating, we decided to shorten the journey to Ayutthaya by using a taxi which cost THB2100 (£47) but worth it the 2-hour journey.
We checked into our hotel, not quite the best even though we had upgraded to superior room. The people were wonderful, and the room was clean and provided all the essentials such as bottled water, shower gel etc. The room had larger patio windows and small terrace but looked directly across to another room and didn’t feel private. Especially as the two male guests across from us just sat drinking and staring at us but didn’t want to engage in conversation. You felt you had to keep the curtains closed to have some privacy. Ok it would suffice for one night and it was not expensive.
We made our way to the old temple ruins which is what we had stopped here for and certainly glad we had visited them. As we strolled, we decided we would come back this way for our evening meal and as there was a promise of a night market. We found a nice Thai restaurant for dinner, a bar with live music but no market just the odd food and retail stores.
Day 8
This morning we strolled over the bridge to enjoy roti with banana and cheese pancakes for breakfast. We then visited Wat Na Phra Men which was across the road from our hotel. Time to continue our journey we took a tuk tuk from the hotel to the train station which cost us THB100 (£2). We board the train to Nakhon Sawan having booked two second class tickets, only sleeper trains have first class. The train journey cost THB260 (£52) for both of us. Not bad for a 3hour train journey. The views as we travelled along were mesmerising and we certainly felt like we were in Thailand.
We ate lunch on the train which consisted of Pad Thai and a drink each, bought from the hop on hop off sellers. At THB150 (£3.50) for both lunch I doubt we will get cheaper.
When we arrived at the train station we hopped onto a Songthaew ( a 4-wheeler car that is modified like mini truck to accommodate passengers.) to take us to our hotel in Nakhon Sawan. Once checked in it was time for dinner and to relax.
TIP: You can purchase the train ticket at the station or book online via State Railway. If you are more mature traveller looking for some comfort, then I strongly recommend you book the second class as the third-class travel is often benches and less room. If like us you are travelling with suitcases, try and get the back seats of the carriage and you should be able to put your luggage behind the seat. You will find the guards on the stations extremely helpful they always assisted us with lifting cases on and off as well as directed us to where our carriage would stop. Note booking hotels at last minute can limit your choice but we found it to be fun to try different types and ratings.
HOTEL : Q Zone boutique house, Ayutthaya
53star hotel, the rooms are clean but basic . Lack of privacy as they face another room. Provide shower gel, shampoo, conditioner etc. The staff are wonderful and so helpful. We paid December 2023, THB 1269 for 1 night in a superior double room.
*Historic City of Ayutthaya
Founded c. 1350, Ayutthaya became the second Siamese capital after Sukhothai. It was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century. Its remains, characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and gigantic monasteries, give an idea of its past splendour. From the website https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/576/
NAKHON SAWAN
Day 9
After a reasonable night’s sleep at the Hop Inn (very much like our Travel Lodges) we went to a mall very close to the hotel for breakfast. At this stage I have to say that the area we were in didn’t look too exciting. Directly across from the hotel was a theme park, not really for the mature traveller looking to experience the cultures of Thailand but fine for families. Next to the theme park was a grass park and lake where the locals would jog and exercise. We had a stroll so far round and decided it was too hot to walk far and decided to go back to the mall to get a tuk tuk to take us to a temple in a cave. The only available tuk tuk was a lovely elderly Thai gentleman that couldn’t speak a word of English and sadly we believe had difficulty reading. We used google translate but in the end showed him pictures of the temple on our phones. He offered to take us for THB300. We hadn’t realised how far this temple, Wat Tham Bo Ya was, almost 36 kilometres. If you have any aches or pains you may want to consider a taxi as this distance in a tuk tuk on a fast road is not the most comfortable mode of transport. Forget the movie Thelma and Louise by the time you arrive you are looking very wind swept. Unfortunately, or in this case fortunately, our wonderful driver managed to get lost, and we ended up in a remote Thai village in the middle of a jungle, a great experience as we were walking round while he asked every local, he could see where the temple was. Needless to say, we were several miles away. We hopped back into our not so luxurious tuk tuk and made our way to the correct area where he still had to stop several times asking locals if he was going in the right direction. We eventually arrived at the entrance of the temple grounds only to be faced with a very long steep staircase that leads to the entrance of the cave. Over 100 steps so if you have any disabilities that causes you problems with your legs you may want to give this temple a miss.
After our visit to the temple our wonderful driver took us to another temple on the way back. At this stage we weren’t quite templed out it was all still exciting. Our driver took us back to where we had booked him from. So now we wanted to ask him to collect us from the hotel tomorrow and take us to the lotus swamps/lakes……challenge we tried to explain but he didn’t understand, a lady boy off one of the stalls tried to help but we didn’t feel we were getting anywhere. We used google translate however he appeared to have difficulties in reading. Then a light bulb moment let’s show him a picture of the lakes and one of the hotel and kept our fingers crossed. Now back to the hotel and time to take some photos of the park entrance, the beautiful dragon. Then dinner at the restaurant across the road.
TIP: You should take into consideration your fitness level and mobility before going to this temple as there is nothing of real interest beyond the actual temple in the cave.
Day 10
Phew, we had obviously explained enough as our tuk tuk driver turned up on time. Such a lovely gentleman with a big smile. Now ready for the bone shaking journey to the lotus lakes, let’s hope it’s worth it. We arrived and negotiated a price for a two-hour boat ride through the lakes. THB1500 for both of us (£33) not bad for a private tour. Again, the gentleman spoke very little in fact almost zero English, but he made sure we understood about the lotus flowers and pointing out wildlife along the way. We saw a small variety of birds including cormorants catching fish. He picked flowers for me to photograph and allowed Phil to steer the boat. An amazing trip and while we were enjoying the experience our tuk tuk driver enjoyed a sleep in his shaded tuk tuk, win win for all.
On the journey back he kindly took us to a modern bridge which they are proud of in Nakhon Sawan. We arrived back at our hotel after a great day and again he only charged us THB 300 of course we gave him more it was well worth it.
We strolled and went for dinner.
TIP: It is more cost effective to get a local tuk tuk or taxi to the lotus lakes and get the boat trip while
HOTEL : HOP INN, NAKHON SAWAN
A basic travel hotel like a Travel Lodge, it was ok for a couple of nights, clean and basic. It did have shower gel/shampoo, the rooms are clean but basic. Lack of privacy as they face another room. Provide shower gel, shampoo, conditioner etc. The staff are wonderful and so helpful. We paid December 2023, THB 1269 for 1 night in a superior double room.
Sukhothai
Day 11
Today we had a train booked to take us to our next destination which was Sukhothai. We needed to catch the train from the station at Nakhon Sawan to Phitsanulok where we had bus tickets to travel to Sukhothai. The taxi collected us from the hotel and off we went excited to see what this next leg of the adventure was to bring. The train journey took two and a half hours. The trains in Thailand are slow compared to the UK but at least you get to see the amazing landscapes and get a taste of how some of the locals live. It certainly wasn’t an unpleasant experience. This train journey only cost THB95 (£2.00). On arriving at the train station, we had to get the connecting bus to Sukhothai, unbeknown to ourselves the bus station was no where near the train station, we rushed to get a taxi to the bus station with very little time to spare. Fortunately, we made the connecting bus, especially as it was the last bus that day.
We arrived at the hotel it wasn’t the standard we hoped for and looked to change the hotel the following day. After dropping our suitcases in the room, we decided to stroll and visit the night market. It was full of food stalls selling everything from chicken skewers to sticky rice and mango. After today’s journey, we were feeling quite hungry. We found a fun restaurant that was obviously a popular venue for the young backpackers. The young Thai girl that served us was always giggling and the most hyper person I’d ever met. A very amusing evening, it was like watching a rocket going round a restaurant. To top it my husband was served his beer in a bottle cooler that sported diagrams of sexual orientation. A great start to Sukhothai.
TIP: Trains and buses are often late but can also leave early, allow plenty of time between connections.
Day 12
This morning we changed hotels and was much happier with the second hotel. However, at this stage we had already decided we would leave Sukhothai a day earlier than we had originally planned to allow us more time at the next stop of Lampang.
We hired a tuk tuk and asked him to first take us to the bus station where we would purchase tickets to take us back to the train station at Phitsanulok, there is no train station at Sukhothai. I had already purchased train tickets online from Phitsanulok to Lampang. It was straight forward to buy the bus tickets this time giving ourselves a little longer to get the connecting train.
Now to enjoy Sukhothai, our tuk tuk driver then took us to the historical park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We decided the best way to explore this amazing ancient site would be by bicycles, while waiting for the bikes to be prepared we went to an amazing coffee shop directly across from the park. Watered and ready we climbed on the bikes and started our journey around this most amazing park. Not having ridden for some time I must admit I was a little rusty, when I sent a short video to my son his sarcastic comment was “Nice bike riding skills” I was wobbly on the thing I must admit.
We rode for several hours drinking in all the amazing ruins and the beautiful landscapes. I would highly recommend this stopover on your tour.
We stopped at a lake where a lady was selling marine life that you bought then let free in the lake. This was to bring you good luck and health. The husband decided while in Thailand do what the Thai people do and paid for the turtle he felt sorry for. To explain, this turtle was in a plastic bag, very much like you used to see goldfish at the fair back in the 1970/1980’s. He paid his THB100 and felt exhilirated and proud he was doing a kind jester……….. Mmmmm you know when things don’t go quite to plan. He gentley released his captured turtle into the lake, good, well not really, within seconds many catfish pounced upon this helpless turtle and needless to say enjoyed their snack. Oh dear it may bring the hubby good luck but not the poor turtle.
We continued with our cycling and managed to get lost in this huge park. There are a variety forms of transport if you are not keen on walking or have some mobility restrictions. A tour bus circles the park with a guide explaining the ruins and park or you can hire a golf buggy.
Aching legs and bum, it was time to take back the bikes have some refreshment then hire a tuk tuk back to the hotel. After a tiring day we decided to have dinner at a local Thai restaurant near the hotel. Pad Thai was most welcoming and to add to the enjoyment we met some like-minded travellers and spent the evening exchanging stories.
“The ruins of Sukhothai are one of Thailand’s best-kept secrets of 700-year-old temples and shrines. Located in the lower North of Thailand, Sukhothai was the capital of the Kingdom of Siam for some 200 years beginning in the 13th century” (www.nationalgeographic.com)
TIP: There are no trains to Sukhothai your options are to get the train to Phitsanlouk then a public bus to Sukhothai or a taxi. Beware that some of the public buses are mini buses and often full to the point you may have suitcases and backpacks imposing on your seating area. We had one situation where we had to put our suitcases onto the roof rack with no one to help. Again, depending upon your fitness levels this could be a small challenge although we found many of travellers were willing to help in such situations. You may also be charged to take your suitcase on the minibus but don’t expect it to have its own seat and be prepared for people having to rest their legs on it.
HOTEL : THE NATURE, SUKHOTHAI
A quaint hotel which offers breakfast and has a swimming pool. The staff are friendly and helpful. The rooms are a reasonable size and very clean. It does not have all the facilities of a 5-star hotel, but the location is ok and perfect for a couple of nights. The cost of this hotel is THB855 per night (£19). Good value for money.
LAMPANG
Day 13
This morning we had our breakfast at the hotel prior to leaving via the hotels free shuttle service to the bus station in preparation for catching our bus to Phitsanlouk to catch the train to Lampang. We had been looking forward to getting the large VIP bus where the cases would be safe in the hold………wrong the bus arrived and parked in the bay, it wasn’t that lovely comfy bus but a clapped-out minibus. We were told we had to pay extra for the two suitcases which were pushed inside the bus blocking the other passengers in. Now this bus was to take two hours to the train station but stopping on route to drop off passengers and collect new passengers plus sacks of rice, the journey took 4 hours. Again, we were panicking about our connection and asked the driver to drop us at the train station knowing how far the bus station was from the train station. Yes, we made the train in time, thank goodness.
Lunch on the train was a pot noodle but as we were hungry it was welcoming. The journey was very pleasant with beautiful scenery and one not to be missed. We arrived at Lampang station, and the owner of the hotel was waiting for us. He drove us to the hotel which was a lovely boutique hotel and beautiful helpful people. After settling into the hotel, we went for a walk around the town. We spent the first part of the evening enjoying the night market then went for dinner to the Bourbon Restaurant just round the corner from the hotel. That evening we fell in love with Lampang and decided we would spend an extra night in Lampang.
Day 14
Up bright and breezy after a good night’s sleep and looking forward to exploring Lampang. Although we had been told about amazing temples and countryside outside of Lampang we had decided we wanted to spend the day exploring Lampang town.
We went to a very local Thai restaurant for breakfast, the only Westerners in the restaurant so Thai breakfast it was. Phil had local curry and coconut soup with a coffee, and I had coconut pancake and coffee. Fuelled up and energised ready for the day.
We walked to the museum of Lampang where it clearly outlined the history of this quaint town. It was a hot day and so the airconditioned museum was quite welcoming.
After visiting the museum, we chose to take a horse and carriage ride around the old town. We passed the original wooden houses and stopped at the house that belonged to the son of the woman who taught the King English as in the famous story of “The King and I”. A very astute businessman by all accounts.
“The house in Lampang belonged to the son of Anna Leonowens – the tutor of King Mongkut (Rama IV) immortalised in the film “The King and I”. Louis (the son of Anna, was involved in the teak trade from 1884 onwards, working for the British Borneo
Company. In 1905 he founded his own company, which also became an agent for imported goods such as whisky, champagne, cement, typewriters, and engineering products.”
After the stop at the Louis T Leonowens House, we stopped at a temple not far from the river and then arrived back at our starting point. A well worth hour tour around the town for THB500. Time for coffee and biscuits at the Coffee Shack before visiting the ceramic market where we bought dishes with paintings of roosters.
“A white rooster is the symbol of her home city of Lampang, Thailand. One sits on the city seal, and images of the birds are seen everywhere, particularly in temples.”
In the evening we had dinner by the river while listening to live music. I really enjoyed my time in Lampang and certainly would recommend it as a stopover when travelling to Chiang Mai.
During this period, we had decided that our next stop would be towards the Golden Triangle and booked a hotel in Chiang Saen.
TIP: If you are looking to break your train journey on route to Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, I would highly recommend a couple of nights in Lampang. It is not commercialised and an interesting Thai town. It is flat and easy to walk around although there are plenty of taxis and tuk tuks to get you around. On the square is a tourist centre and the young people are so helpful and give out free maps and information.
HOTEL : LE NEUF NAKORN, LAMPANG
A quaint boutique hotel which offers breakfast. The owner is very friendly and helpful. The rooms are a reasonable size and very clean. It does not have all the facilities of a 5-star hotel, but the location is good and perfect for a couple of nights. The cost of this hotel is THB800 per night (£18). Good value for money.
CHIANG SAEN
Day 15
The kind owner of the hotel in Lampang took us to the bus station where we were to get the bus from Lampang to Chiang Rai where we would get a taxi to the hotel in Chiang Saen. The bus journey was reasonably comfortable and arriving at the station in Chiang Rae we chose to use “Grab” to get a taxi to the hotel in Chiang Saen. There were no direct buses to anywhere near the hotel so in this instance the taxi was the best option. After an hour and half drive, we arrived at the hotel which overlooked the Mekong river. Although it was 15 kilometres from the town of Chiang Saen it was relaxing and in a beautiful location. We decided to have lunch at the hotel while we decided where we would go next.
After lunch we got a taxi from the hotel to Chiang Saen. We wandered around this quaint town and decided to go for a drink prior to having dinner. It turns out the small bar/restaurant was having its soft opening, and we were their very first customers. The owner’s son started a conversation with us, he was a teacher at the school in the town and was helping his mother at this most important time. She was nervous to find her first customers were English and worried about talking in English. Her English was certainly better than our Thai as we sadly speak no Thai. We were well looked after and had a lovey time with these amazing people.
Earlier we had watched the locals starting to set out tables and chairs along the promenade next to the Mekong River. We decided this was certainly the place for dinner although there was a small challenge……….. the tables were very low, and you were expected to sit on cushions on the floor. Now getting down would be OK but getting up maybe a challenge. As we stood giggling and contemplating the situation this pop-up restaurant owner bought out two small chairs for us to sit on. Now we felt old but didn’t let it put us off. We had an amazing meal amidst all the locals, the atmosphere was jolly and electrifying, what a good decision.
After a very pleasant evening we decided it was time to get a taxi back but wow and behold there were no taxis to be seen. We wandered up the main street hoping to find one but to no avail. We decided to ask a local small food stall if they could help, before we had time to breathe the whole family was trying to understand our request and bought out chairs for us to sit on. They were amazing and as they couldn’t locate a taxi the young man decided to telephone our hotel to help. The hotel sent a taxi to collect us and while we were on our journey back the hotel took the time to telephone me to check that we were ok and that the taxi had turned up. What amazing helpful people their kindness oozes out of the. No wonder we love Thailand so much. We arrived back at the hotel safe and relaxed, another amazing day.
Day 16
A good hearty breakfast and now ready for a day site seeing. First o the agenda was a visit to the Opium Hall about 3 kilometres outside of Sop Ruak the heart of the Golden Triangle. We booked a taxi via the hotel and got him to drop us off at the museum. It was one of the most interesting museums I’d been to. Telling in detail the history of Thailand and how the problem of illegal opium was being dealt with. I find it quite confusing the strictness on illegal drugs in the country yet Cannabis is legal and highly promoted through Thailand in bars, dispensaries etc. Very much a social activity.
After two interesting hours in the museum it was time to move on and go to Sop Ruak where we hoped to take a boat ride on the Mekong River. As we approached the exit in the museum we were approached by the museum employee enquiring where our taxi was waiting, we explained we didn’t have a taxi waiting so he asked where our car was parked, we had no car and no we had no scooter. So the next question how do you expect to get to the town or your hotel, we thought we would get a taxi we answered! You will not get one from here he explained. Oh did that mean a 3 kilometre walk in the extreme heat: Like all these wonderful people he did no more than take us in his car to Sop Ruak, how kind.
We booked a long boat trip down the Mekong River which enabled us to get a good view of the three countries that make the triangle, Myanmar. Laos, and Thailand. After the trip we ate lunch in a Thai food court prior to having a wander round the town. In the town is also a small museum about the history of Opium in Thailand. Although not as large as the Opium Hall it is excellent providing a high level introduction to Northern Thailand. Loving this trip.
Day 17
After a hectic few days, today we decided to stay locally near the hotel. After breakfast we took a stroll via the Mekong River and then walked around the Bansaeo Village. A typical Thai village with no tourists just local shops and rice fields. All the locals smiled and said hello, how welcoming. That evening I took the opportunity to photograph some sunsets by the river. What a great location this hotel is, as well as peaceful with wonderful staff.
TIP: If you are not happy to take a taxi each day and prefer to be nearer the town and busy areas then this hotel may not be in a suitable location for you. The places we visited at this stop were easily accessible and very little climbing required. If you are contemplating on a river trip I suggest you use mosquito repellent.
HOTEL : Bansaeo garden and resort, chiang saen
A 4-star hotel that has a restaurant, bar and swimming pool. Situated by the Mekong River with amazing views of the river. Very clean, spacious rooms with a good-sized balcony. Extremely helpful staff. Highly recommend. The cost of a night in the hotel in a King Room with Balcony was THB2,553 (£56) per night bed and breakfast.
Next Stop Chiang Rai ……..// check out my blog on Chiang Mai
Elle Je` Travel 